A complete guide to planting autoflowering cannabis seeds; get the most out of your plants with these fool proof steps to growing autoflowering strains. I figure this is a common newb question and I am a newb to this so this is the place for me…. I pre-soaked 6 old ass bag seed in a mild pHed epsom +… Buy Cannabis Seeds – Got your seeds but now you're curious about how long cannabis seeds germinate? – Amsterdam Seed Supply
Planting Autoflowering Cannabis Seeds
Planting autoflowering cannabis seeds is a relatively easy process, but to get the most out of your plants you need to follow a series of steps that are completely different from those that seasonal seeds have. An autoflowering cannabis seed needs a bit more care than normal seeds. You need to speed up the growth as much as possible so you don’t get teeny plants with no more than 5 blunts on them. We’re going to give you a series of things you’ll need to do in order to get the most out of your plants.
Germinating Autoflowering Cannabis Seeds:
The first thing that you’ll need to do is germinate the seed properly, using the paper towel method that we’ve talked about here before.
Once your seeds have germinated or opened, however you prefer to call it, you’ll need to prepare some small Teku 7×7 pots with soil, don’t use jiffy pellets or anything like that as the roots need plenty of space to grow.
Fill the pots with soil first and then water them; once the plant breaches the top of the soil you mustn’t wet it again. If you water it before the seed has come out then it will probably move up towards the surface which can cause a whole list of other issues. The best thing to do is to water first and then wait to water it again until the sapling grows a bit.
Bury the seed about half a cm to 1cm down into the soil, making a hole with a pen or a toothpick and putting the seed inside with the little root facing downwards. Cover it with a bit of soil without compacting it too much and leave it there until the plant begins to grow above the soil. What we usually do is leave it for 24h with light during this process until you transplant the seed to its main flowerpot. If you don’t have grow lights then use the most powerful one you can so that it doesn’t get too cold in the pot.
Up until this point the process has been exactly the same for seasonal seeds, but that’s about to change. You’ll need to wait for the plant to break the surface and have that little growth spurt that cannabis plants tend to get when they’re looking for light. This can take 4 or 5 days, and you’ll need to keep a close eye on them so you don’t leave them for too long. Make sure that the plant doesn’t begin to develop in that flowerpot, the maximum time you should leave the plant in it is 6 days.
Now is when you’ll need to transplant your autoflowering plants to their permanent home. Autoflowering strains that take two months prefer pots that are about 7L, whereas those that take three months much prefer pots that are 11L, no bigger.
Fill the flowerpots to the top with soil, nice and compact so that when you water the water doesn’t go all the way to the bottom, although make sure you don’t compact it too much as the plants need a good oxygen/water ratio to breath and grow; with no oxygen the roots won’t be healthy at all and you’ll end up with a dwarfed plant. You’ll need to keep the light at 20h until the end, or make sure it’s in a spot where it can get the maximum amount of sunlight hours.
Once those pots are full of soil, you’ll need to make a hole to stick your small plant in. Make it deep, as you’ll need to bury part of the trunk as well, to the point where the bottom of the trunk is just 5cm long from the soil to where the first leaves are. Then, water the edges of the pot little by little so the soil gets properly humid.
The reason you need to bury part of the trunk is because even more roots can come out of that small piece of stem, and it also gives the plant stability and strength so that it doesn’t bend and break and it can spend more energy on growing branches and foliage. The more roots it grows the more the plant will grow, which is how you can easily speed up the growing process. Once you’ve buried it, water the plant with about a liter of water mixed with a low concentration of growth fertilizer; some substrates absorb water easier than others, so it might be trial and error in your case and you’ll need to adapt the amount of water to how absorbent your soil is.
I use a liter of water with Canna Terra Professional, and no excess water comes out of the holes in the flowerpot which means it’s adequately watered. You can read all about substrates here.
From this day onwards you’re going to need to check and see if the soil is dry; until it is completely dry you shouldn’t have to water it again, and this should take about 7 days. The best way to check if the soil is dry is by lifting up the pot; if it’s still pretty heavy then it still has water in it.
The next step is watering with growth fertilizers once it’s dry after that first watering. You should be at around day 13 or 14 and you’ll have noticed a bit of growth in the last couple of days. For watering, you should make your mix in a bottle with just one glass of water per pot at this stage. The next day check and see if the pots are heavy; if they’re dry then give them another glass of water but if they’re not don’t water them again until the next day. If the soil is extremely dry the next day then you’ll need to give it two glasses of water. Up the dosage as time goes by little by little and this process of dryness and water will make the plant grow a nice root system, as well as an amazing production.
Before you realize it, it will be day 25 and your plant should be beginning to flower. It no longer looks like the plants you had before, does it? You haven’t changed the seeds, just the method. Now all you have to do is follow the typical flowering steps that every seed needs; a flowering stimulant to begin with, a flowering base, a fattening products once the buds have formed, and end it all by washing out the roots. Flowers take about 20 days to properly form and the fattening period lasts about 2 weeks rather than four weeks for a seasonal seed; once you see the flowers forming properly then you need to use the fattening product.
We’re sure that if you follow these steps you’ll be extremely happy with the results that your autoflowering plants will give you compared to other grows you’ve tried. You might even see some of the mistakes that you made corrected in this article. Many people will probably say to never transplant autoflowering plants, but those people won’t get specimens as big as you will if you follow this guide!
How long for pre-germed seeds to break soil.
I figure this is a common newb question and I am a newb to this so this is the place for me.
I pre-soaked 6 old ass bag seed in a mild pHed epsom + superthrive 000ppm RO/DI solution last Wednesday at a constant temp of 85deg F for 24 hours. Then placed them in paper towel damped with the same solution and kept them at the same 85deg. 4 of the 6 cracked, which surprised the shit out of me considering I have not the foggiest how old the seeds are other than they are at least 2 years old and were not kept in the best conditions. This last Sunday I planted the popped beans in a screened 50/50 peat & composted steer manure mix which I then cut 50/50 with perlite. I mix my soil in 15 gallon batches and to that I add 1/4 cup agricultural gypsum,1/4 cup epsom salt, 1 cup blood meal, 1 cup cotton seed meal, 1 cup kelp meal, 2 cups fish bone meal and 2 cups rock dust. This is my standard tomato and pepper mix and it’s never failed me before. I set the seeds in a < 1/4" depression misted until damp with pHed RO/DI, covered with the soil mix and then misted heavily, but not soaked. The 4 starter pots were then place in a humidity dome and have been kept in the dark at a constant temp of 82deg F since. I've misted the soil once a day since. This is also my standard procedure starting my peppers and maters and it is highly successful for them. Not one seed has broken the soil yet. I figure with each bean cracking and showing from 1/8" to 1/4" of tap root that they are viable seeds. Am I being an impatient cook watching his water waiting for it to boil so to speak and need to just be patient?? Or have I screwed up somehow from the get go??
This is my first go at growing the sweet sweet herb. But I’ve been organic gardening fruits and veggies from seed for over a decade. I’m psyched to get these babies in my cabinet. Just posting here for input and to maybe put my mind at ease a little while I wait. I haven’t had this kind of anxiety since waiting in the doc’s office for my vasectomy. odd how a growing a simple plant can wind me up so much. In the end if I dicked the bag seed up. no big loss. I am going to do a few grows with the old seed I have left to get a couple grows under my belt before I pop the seed I paid for.
How Long Cannabis Seeds Germinate?
If you’re one of those people that have to have control over everything you might find yourself wondering how long cannabis seeds germinate. The long and short of it is that it usually takes 24 to 48 hours for the cannabis seeds to germinate. If they are placed somewhere moist, warm and dark, like a cupboard or in a propagator. These are ideal places for the Cannabis seeds to germinate and they will crack out of their protective shells.
So now you know how long cannabis seeds germinate, what will happen after?
After another two days, they should have a pair of leaves then continue growing for another two weeks until they begin the vegetation period. If you are concerned that the seed cover is still on the leaf or concerned about how long the cannabis seed germination will still take, just remember the more warmth and moisture (not dampness) will accelerate the process for the Cannabis seeds to germinate and within 24 to 48 hours it should be completely out of its shell.
You could also find our FAQ Submission Where To Find Cannabis Seeds? useful.